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Like clockwork, when my daughter turned 9, she started to show interest in nail polish, lip balm, and haircare. Mommy, I think I need shampoo for my specific hair type, she told me. I knew the day would come when my daughter would be lured in by beauty products, but I still found myself unprepared to respond. I feel a responsibility to help her navigate what will be a lifelong relationship with the beauty industrial complex. This means helping her decide what products are safe and appropriate to use. More importantly, though, it means helping her see beauty as a tool of self-care, rather than an external standard she must achieve. [Photo: Evereden] This is becoming an increasingly complex task for today’s parents. For one thing, the beauty industry is bigger than ever, with new products and brands popping up daily. Many contain active ingredients that aren’t appropriate for young skin, but that hasn’t stopped tweens from flocking to Sephora to buy them. All of these brandsfrom Sol de Janeiro to Drunk Elephantare marketed to adults, with models who are much older than the brand’s youngest customers. The good news is that there’s a new wave of startups emerging that cater specifically to younger consumers, including Starface and Bubble. One of the most successful brands in this category is Evereden, which began as a baby brand in 2018 but has grown alongside its customers by creating skincare products for kids and now tweens. It’s currently making its biggest play for the tween set by launching fragrances designed to compete directly with the Sol de Janeiro mists that are highly coveted by middle schoolers. In many ways, Evereden is filling an important gap in the market for age-appropriate beauty products for young girls. It’s a void left behind by Bonne Bell, the iconic cosmetics brand that catered to generations of American tweens but shuttered a decade ago after years of declining sales. Evereden’s approach offers a glimpse into what today’s tweens care about, and what it takes to win them over. Growing With The Customer Parents who slathered Evereden’s creams on their preschoolers in 2018 are now living with preteens. Evereden is prepared for them. Two years ago, it launched a $22 lip oil that comes with a charm attached that feels like an upscale version of Lip Smackers. (Everden’s formula is certified by the Environmental Working Group to be free of toxic chemicals; meanwhile, EWG says Lip Smackers contains ingredients that could cause allergies, reproductive toxicity, and cancer.) [Photo: Evereden] This week, Evereden is launching a $69 three-piece set of fragrance mists that come in fun, colorful bottles. And when I tested them, they seemed to capture the bright, sugary essence of girlhood. This isn’t an accident. While many adult perfumes are complex and subtle, tweens tend to have simpler sensibilities. That’s what Evereden found when it did a focus group with 200 tweens and teens, asking them to choose among 70 scents. The final fragrances are fresh, floral, and sweet. Over the past five years, the fragrance industry has exploded, and tweens have contributed to this growth. Sol de Janeiro became Sephora’s best-selling brand partly because of the success of its fragrance mists, which are extremely popular among middle schoolers. But Evereden cofounder and CEO Kimberley Ho points out that many of the fragrances that tweens are buying from Sephora aren’t designed for kids. Sol de Janeiros advertising, for example, features voluptuous women in bikinis on Brazilian beaches. Mists were the most requested product last year, Ho says. Many parents told me they weren’t comfortable with their child using Sol de Janeiro. The brand’s campaigns are sexual, because they’re meant for adults. [Photo: Evereden] Ho was careful to market Evereden’s new mists in an age-appropriate way. The boxed set comes with a quizreminiscent of something you might find in retro magazines like Girls’ Life or Tiger Beatthat helps you decide which mist to wear on a given day. Are you feeling girly? Darling, with its undertones of strawberry and rose, is for you. Are you feeling a little sassy and independent? Supernova, with its pear and bamboo notes, is the right pick. We use the same model for all the fragrances, because the message is that we are all multidimensional, Ho says. Tweens are at an age when they ae trying to figure out who they are. We’re trying to say that you can be many things at once. The Rise and Fall of Bonne Bell In many ways, Evereden is using the playbook of Bonne Bell, which defined tween beauty for generations of Americans. The brand was founded in 1937, at a time when the concept of the teenager was first emerging in U.S. culture. The company realized it had an opportunity to tailor products to girls who were curious about their mothers makeup and skincare, but weren’t ready to take on an adult beauty regimen. The brand launched a range of teen-focused drugstore products that girls could afford to buy with their babysitting money. It was famous for its three-step acne-fighting regimen called Ten-O-Six. In 1973, it launched Lip Smackers, lip balms that came in flavors like cherry and Tootsie Roll. Two years after that, Bonne Bell launched perfumes. A vintage Lip Smackers ad [Photo: twitchery/Flickr] The branding of these products was distinct from beauty products targeted at adults; Bonne Bell featured younger models with more natural makeup in scenarios that were more about having fun than being sexy. As a result, many parents felt comfortable with their daughters filling their vanity with these products. In the 2000s, Bonne Bell began a slow decline. Competitors like Wet n Wild and L’Oréal started going after the tween and teen market with similar products. And retailers like Bath & Body Works tapped into the tween market by creating fun, limited-edition body sprays and washes that middle schoolers loved to collect. But this was also the dawn of e-commerce and social media, which led to an explosion of new beauty brands in the marketplace. Many tweens were drawn to these other brands, which resulted in Bonne Bell losing market share. In 2015, the company announced it was shuttering its operations. Lip Smackers products have reemerged under a new owner but have nowhere near the same market share they once had. [Photo: Evereden] Bonne Bell for Gen Alpha While the market is now overflowing with beauty brands, there are very few that focus exclusively on the tween consumer. This makes business sense. Brands stand to generate far more revenue by reaching a wider demographicparticularly if tweens are among them. But Ho believes it’s worth creating tween-specific products. For one thing, thanks to the clean beauty movement, many parents are very conscious about what they are putting on their children’s bodies. As their toddlers turn into tweens, they want to be careful about potential toxins or hormone disruptors in beauty products. From the start, Evereden has been focused on clean formulations that are also effective. Ho brought on three chief scientific officers who are professors of dermatology at Harvard and Stanford. Together, they’ve developed products free of 2,000 ingredients known to cause harm. The new fragrance mists are made without any preservatives such as butylated hydroxytoluene, which is commonly used in perfumes in the U.S. but has been banned in other countries because it is carcinogenic. [Photo: Evereden] And parents arent the only ones who are eager for age-appropriate products. Based on her focus groups, Ho has concluded that most tweens aren’t interested in plunging fully into the world of adulthood and the beauty rituals that go along with it. They’re just curious and want to dip their toe in the water. Until now, there haven’t been many options for them to explore, so they’ve embraced brands meant for older consumers. I see this in my own daughter. She’s intrigued by my perfume and makeup. But she also seems to understand that girlhood is precious and worth holding on to. When Evereden’s perfume mists arrived, she took the quiz with all the seriousness of a school math test. She decided to wear the Supernova scent, because she was feeling spunky. But who knows which one she’ll choose tomorrow?
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E-Commerce
This nondescript piece of home decor is about the size of a narrow bookshelf, and it looks like a vertical soundbar speaker. In reality, it’s a new home fitness deviceand it hides a gym’s worth of workout machines. Amp is a $1,995 home fitness device that streamlines the clunkiness of a cable-based workout machine into the form of a thin, wall-mounted home accessory. It’s now available to pre-order for $99. Just six feet tall and one foot deep, Amp consists of a vertical mounted bar with a movable arm that pivots off the side and serves as the main workout interface. Unlike the typical gym machine with a stack of weights attached to a cable, Amp’s single cable interface connects to a magnetic resistance motor and electrical driver and can be adjusted to different heights to accommodate everything from bicep curls to squats to lunges. [Photo: Amp] Amp was founded by Shalom Meckenzie, a fitness enthusiast and tech entrepreneur. In 2020, he merged his betting software company SBTech with the sports betting company DraftKings for an undisclosed sum. Driven by the impact of losing his father when he was just 18, Meckenzie knew he wanted his next venture to focus on wellness and fitness. He scoured the market and came upon the idea of creating a workout machine that was more accessible than the large, complex and often ugly devices found in gyms. The starting point for Amp’s fitness device was to build something that “would look like a premium, luxury product,” Meckenzie says. “Not like a fitness device but more something like furniture that will blend into any house.” [Photo: Amp] This is a particular challenge for the multi-functional workout device known as a cable crossover machine, which Amp is intended to replicate, and is among one of the most used devices in any gym. Users can do a wide variety of exercises on this machine, but it’s often an elevator-sized metal cage strung through with cables, pulleys, and large stacks of weights. The solution would need the versatility of a crossover machine without the clunkinessMeckenzie wanted Amp to sit in people’s living rooms, not get tucked away in their basements, while still being useful. “We’ve looked into all of our competitors and we chose one thing. We said we don’t want to look like any of them,” Meckenzie says. [Photo: Amp] About three years ago, he convened a team to devise a different approach. They holed up in a villa for two weeks and started designing prototypes out of cardboard. “I think we built about 25 different mock-ups,” says Shahar Cohen, Amp’s CEO. At the end of this campout design sprint the team members voted on their favorite version of the device. Their selection was unanimous. This prototype became Amp. Amp’s magnetic motor has between five and 100 pounds of resistance, which may seem low for those accustomed to straining against hundreds of pounds of metal weight. Meckenzie says the team designed Amp to optimize how a user works out, not how much weight they can pull. It operates on three different modes that alter the way weight and resistance are used in any given exercise. A fixed mode uses the same amount of resistance for both pulling and releasing the cable. A rubber band-like mode increases the resistance the longer a user pulls on the cable. And “eccentric” mode adds more resistance as the user returns the cable back to its starting point, meaning a 20-pound curl will feel like 30 pounds during the release. [Photo: Amp] With custom-built motors, integrated artificial intelligence, and a companion smartphone app, the device can mimic some of the most common machines found in gyms, and also create entirely new types of workouts based on the needs of the user. “We have a lot of opportunity for different types of resistance that you actually cannot perform with standard mechanical systems,” says Cohen. About 1,000 of Amp’s fitness devices have shipped to customers and installed so far, mostly in Los Angeles, Miami, and New York, and the company expects to ship to other regions in the coming months. The full $1,995 cost includes shipping as well as installation, which Cohen compares to mounting a television. Hitting a relatively low price point was important to Meckenzie, who developed the idea for Amp during the pandemic when people were buying up smart home fitness devices like Peloton, which sell for between $1,495 and $2,495. “For me, it wasn’t interesting to sell a device for $5,000 or $10,000 which will not be accessible to people,” Meckenzie says. “I wanted to do something that has a big impact.”
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E-Commerce
As the geographic center of Indianapolis, Monument Circle is in many ways the heart of the city. The 284-foot Soldiers and Sailors Monument towering in the middle is a beloved local landmark, and the plaza and fountain around its base has been a gathering place since it opened in 1902. But the way most people experience it is through the window of a car. Monument Circle is technically a traffic circle, which means the center of the city is little more than a place for cars to drive. The past couple of years, however, have shown another possibility. Since 2023, from June through November, part of the traffic circle has been closed to cars and converted into Spark on the Circle, a pop-up park that has activated the space and brought tens of thousands of pedestrians downtown. Created by the nonprofit art and design organization Big Car Collaborative in partnership with several local agencies, Spark on the Circle turns a quarter of the circle into an activated public space, with Astroturf covering the roadway, shade structures, games, vendors, and stages for performances. Now the landscape architects who designed the park are working on a plan that could make the pop-up permanent. Merritt Chase, a firm based in Indianapolis and Pittsburgh, has been involved in shaping Monument Circle for several years through its work on the downtown resiliency strategy launched by Indianapolis Mayor Joe Hogsett in 2022. One plan arising from the strategy calls for a renewed focus on improving walkability downtown and creating more public space for an emerging residential population. Spark on the Circle, and Merritt Chase’s design for it, was created to turn Monument Circle into a destination rather than something most people simply drive past. Historic Monument Circle: Soldiers and Sailors Monument, circa 1950 [Photo: W.H. Bass Photo Co., Indiana Historical Society] There’s been so much history there, protests and demonstrations, parades, festivals, and just the everyday life of the city that passed through that space. There have always been questions around the identity of the circle, the use of the circle, the future potential of the circle, says Chris Merritt, cofounder of Merritt Chase. Over the last couple of years, the temporary park we’ve put out there has definitely been a successful case study of new ways to reimagine and use the circle. So we’re building on that to continue to think about what a future permanent plan might be for the circle. [Rendering: courtesy Merritt Chase] Merritt Chase has just been awarded an 18-month fellowship to further explore ideas for redesigning or reusing Monument Circle. The firm is one of 10 fellows supported by Emerson Collective, a philanthropy started by Laurene Powell Jobs, widow of Apple’s Steve Jobs. The 2025 cohort of fellows, announced this week, is focused on local leadership and community-centered place-based work, according to Patrick D’Arcy, senior director of fellowships at Emerson Collective. We really respect [Merritt Chases] community-centered approach. They believe that successful public projects require more than just really beautiful design; they also require community trust and collaboration and relationship building, says D’Arcy. Their vision for a more utilized and joyful Monument Circle is really inspiring. [Photo: courtesy Merritt Chase] A circle for the city Preparations for this summer’s iteration of Spark on the Circle are still underway, but its expected to open in June. Megan Vukusich is director of the city’s Department of Metropolitan Development, and though she says there is currently no funding or official plan in place to make the pop-up park a permanent one, the visitation numbers suggest strong community interest. According to a report from Big Car Collective, the 2024 iteration of the park saw more than 71,000 visitors, with more than 400 on an average day. More than 80% of visitors spent 30 minutes or more at the park, and 30% went to a restaurant or did shopping downtown after leaving. [Photo: courtesy Merritt Chase] We don’t want people to come and snap a quick photo. We’d like them to stay, maybe check out some of the local shops. These metrics are showing us that it is having an impact on the larger community, Vukusich says. Having activations such as Spark gives us a little bit more insight into what the community is looking for. It’s also a reflection of the changing shape of downtown Indianapolis. Like many city centers, it was deeply affected by the pandemic, with many companies shuttering offices or allowing employees to work remotely. But downtown development is coming back, and officials estimate more than $9 billion worth of projects are in the pipeline, including a convention center expansion and a new 40-story hotel tower. This is happening as downtown’s residential population has grown to more than 29,000, more than a 46% increase since 2010. [Photo: courtesy Merritt Chase] Merritt Chase has two other ongoing projects that feed into this growth. One is a pedestrian conversion of three blocks leading up to the convention center; the other will add a new park to the site of a historic downtown food hall, with construction beginning this summer. Spark on the Circle is the pop-up version of these larger projects. This is a way of leveraging a lot of that private investment and connecting it all across the city to create better everyday livable experiences, Merritt says. Projects like these and the way they connect will give more of a reason to not just visit but hopefully encourage more people to live downtown. Though some local commenters have bemoaned any street closures, downtown Indianapolis has a very tight downtown grid with city blocks that are smaller than those in other big cities. The closure of part of the circle, or even the entire circle, would require only a short driving detour. [Photo: courtesy Merritt Chase] Merritt Chase will use its 18-month Emerson Collective fellowship to expand its community outreach, research, and planning for the future of downtown centered around Monument Circle, using Spark on the Circle as one of the primary use cases. Chase Merritt cofounder Nina Chase says the 2024 visitation numbers show there’s a big appetite for this kind of unconventional public space in the city. That’s been really lovely to see, she says. We as landscape architects, we think yes that’s what you should do, but sometimes you never know. So it’s good to see it in action. Merritt says turning the pop-up park into something more permanent is one option, but it’s not the predetermined goal of the plan Merritt Chase will produce. They’re more interested in finding out how people in the city want to use the space and then designing around that. Whether it’s parklike and still open for cars or completely closed to cars, I think that’s still to be determined through lots of conversations with folks downtown and residents.
Category:
E-Commerce
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