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A century ago, Guccio Gucci opened a boutique in Florence, Italy, that sold high-end leather luggage to well-heeled travelers. He infused his brand with all kinds of unique design elements that would become iconic, including the double-G insignia and bamboo handles. Guccio’s oldest son, Aldo, would go on to transform the label into one of the best-known luxury brands in the world, alongside Chanel, Louis Vuitton, and Prada. Aldo’s granddaughter, Alexandra Gucci Zarini, heard a lot about the origins of her family’s business around the dining table when she was growing up. She wanted to follow in her great-grandfather’s footsteps by becoming a fashion designer. But by the time she was in design school, the Guccis no longer controlled their namesake brand. In 1993, the family sold its stake to a Bahrain-based company that took it public. By 1999, the French luxury conglomerate Kering (formerly Pinault-Printemps-Redoute) had acquired a controlling 42% stake in Gucci for $3 billion. Within five years, that stake grew to 99.4%. “I wanted to be just like my grandfather,” Zarini says. “I wanted to create something long-lasting and meaningful. But my family wasn’t involved in the company anymore and so I went on with my life.” [Photo: courtesy AGCF] Zarini went on to do other things, including working at a family office and an art gallery, before becoming a stay-at-home mother. But two years ago, Zarini decided it was finally time for her to rekindle her dream: She cofounded her own handbag brand, called AGCF (which stands for Alexandra Gucci Creative Framework) with her husband, Josef Zarini. It produces luxury handbags priced between $1,000 and $3,000, along with small leather goods and jewelry. She launched her newest handbag collection, which features structured silhouettes that are subtly reminiscent of her great-grandfather’s original designs, earlier this spring. [Photo: courtesy AGCF] In many ways, the past two years have been a chance for Zarini and her husband to test the waters with their nascent brandand now they’re ready to scale. They’re beginning to explore partnerships with department stores and other retailers around the world. Zarini’s goal is to appeal to a new kind of luxury customer, one who prefers quiet luxury to big brands. But there are also some customers who long for the old Gucci and are drawn to AGCF’s design language. “There’s a little hint of Gucci there, but it’s also a distinctly different brand,” Zarini says. “It’s a brand reimagined for today.” And indeed, AGCF provides luxury shoppers an alternative to Gucci, which is currently on a downward spiral. Last year, Gucci revenue declined by 23% from the year before to $8.6 billion. This weakened Kering’s earnings, which were down 12% to $17.8 billion. This year, Gucci’s first-quarter sales continued to tumble by 25%. In March, Gucci announced that it had appointed Demna, the creative director of Balenciaga for the past 10 years, to become its new artistic director, starting in July 2025. Given that Demna is known for pursuing the avant-garde, rather than the traditional, AGCF may offer a compelling option to fans of old-school Gucci. [Photo: courtesy AGCF] A 21st-Century Label Over the decades, there were others in the Gucci family who launched their own fashion lines, including two of Aldo’s sons, Giorgio and Paolo, in the 1960s and 1970s. (Those brands were ultimately absorbed into the Gucci Group and acquired by Kering.) But Zarini’s vision for her brand is different from those of her uncles. Zarini realized she had the opportunity to think about what would be different if Guccio Gucci had founded his brand today, and recognizes that the 21st-century consumer expects different things from luxury brands. For one thing, the planet wasn’t in crisis a century ago, so Gucci wasn’t built on sustainable principles. Conversely, Zarini has built AGCF with a focus on more eco-friendly materials and manufacturing processes. The brand sources its leather from a tannery in Florence that is audited by the Leather Working Group, and its small jewelry collection is made using recycled metals and lab-grown diamonds. [Photo: courtesy AGCF] We also live in an era of fast fashion, where trends shift quickly, creating a culture of overconsumption that is bad for he environment. Even luxury brands are guilty of cultivating trends to encourage people to buy more and more. Zarini has focused on designing bags that are minimal and classic, so they don’t go out of style. “Even the colors are going to stay the same,” she says. “Our goal is to create products that could have been worn 30 years ago and youll still wear 30 years from now.” More importantly, Zarini wants her brand to be associated with a social cause. She has spent her life focused on fighting against the exploitation of children. Zarini herself is a survivor. In 2020, she brought a lawsuit against three of her family members, describing years of sexual abuse perpetrated by her former stepfather, Joseph Ruffal, and complicity from her mother and grandmother. Zarini wants to use AGCF as a platform for raising awareness about child abuse. AGCF was founded as a B Corporation, and it donates 20% of its profits to support grassroots charitable organizations that are committed to advocating for children. She believes a fashion brand is a particularly good vehicle for telling this story because it’s also part of an industry that exploits children. “We know that the fashion industry relies on child labor,” she says. “And young models are taken advantage of.” [Photo: courtesy AGCF] Paying Homage to Aldo Gucci Zarini is building a luxury brand for the 21st century. Even so, she’s still deeply inspired by her great-grandfather’s work, and her products have silhouettes and motifs that are distantly related to the Gucci archives. AGCF seems designed to appeal to Gucci fans who are more drawn to the brand’s heritage than to what it has become in recent years. “There’s a subtle hint of heritage there,” Zarini says. “It ties back to my grandfather.” [Photo: courtesy AGCF] Zarini has created simple, structured silhouettes for her bags, some of which are reminiscent of classic Gucci pieces. The rounded shape of the Ascot bag, for instance, is similar to Gucci’s bamboo handle bag that was launched in 1947. The Chelsea crossbody bag has a trapezoid shape that is similar to the Gucci horsebit bag that came out in 1955. “If you look from afar, you might see the Gucci vibe,” she says. “But I’m interested in bringing in that heritage without too closely mimicking it, because I don’t want to ride the coattails of the Gucci name.” [Photo: courtesy AGCF] AGCF launched quietly two years ago. It sells its products online and from a storefront on Rodeo Drive. This is also a tribute to her grandfather, who first opened a store there in 1968. This was an important step for Gucci because it introduced Hollywood stars to the label, helping turn the brand into a global sensation. “Aldo Gucci was one of the first to open a store on Rodeo Drive, and turn the street into what it is today,” says Josef Zarini. “I think it’s important to remember him because he is a Gucci that the world doesn’t know very well.”
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E-Commerce
Spring is officially here. Its beautiful outside, and let me guess: You are spending all of your time indoors. Dont worry, youre in good company. On average people spend 90% of their time indoors. Not to mention that the other 10% is probably mostly spent in cars or other built environments. Workers in cubicles spend eight hours every day in a small gray box, separated from human interaction, marinating in stagnant air and fluorescent lighting. Its cramped, uncomfortable, and unhealthy. One 2018 study found that workers in cubicles were 31.83% less active and reported being 9.10% more stressed at the office compared with workers in open bench seating. Not to mention that over time, chronic stress can lead to a host of negative health effects such as weight gain, trouble concentrating, irritability, lower rates of healing, and high blood pressure. In contrast, the field of biophilic design aims to create spaces that optimize productivity and well-being. In the roughly 300,000 years humans have been on Earth, offices have only really been around the past few hundred years. Biophilic architecture is based on the concept that humans evolved in natural environments, and because of this, we feel the best when these factors are mimicked. Incorporation or mimicry of the natural world into our built spaces can greatly improve peoples health, happiness, and productivity. Researchers have found that harnessing biophilic design can lead to powerful effects, such as buildings that make employees more productive, hospitals that heal people faster, and apartment complexes that reduce crime. However, you dont need to invest billions of dollars to access the benefits of biophilic designresearch has found that even small changes can have big impacts. Here are a few simple ways that you can leverage biophilic design in your workspaces to improve your well-being and productivity. [Images: Mike Von/Unsplash, munandme/iStock/Getty Images Plus] Start bringing plants to work The first step to creating a more biophilic workplace can be as simple as bringing a few plants to work. According to a field study published in the Frontiers in Psychology journal in 2023, adding plants into workplaces without views of greenery significantly increased employee workplace satisfaction and sense of privacy, modulated humidity, and improved opinions on workplace attractiveness, while decreasing health-related complaints. According to biophilic design consultant Sonja Bochart, Even the smallest plant can make a difference. In fact, according to a 2020 study, researchers found that 27% of participants saw a significant reduction of pulse rate when staring at a small plant on their desk, in comparison to a blank desktop monitor during breaks. Bochart especially recommends bringing in plants in an array of sizes, which provides variety and is very pleasing to the mind and to the brain. Research from NASA has also found that low-light and low-maintenance house plants, such as snake plants and spider plants, are great at producing oxygen and cleaning air pollutants. [Images: David Fintz/Unsplash, munandme/iStock/Getty Images Plus] Prioritize natural lighting Consistent exposure to natural sunlight can have a powerful impact on peoples health and productivity. One study found that workers in offices lit by sunlight reported an 84% decrease in symptoms such as headaches, eyestrain, and blurred vision. Bochart says that the benefits of sunlight exposure can also follow you home. Sunlight helps set peoples circadian rhythms, which help our mood, help our development, and help our sleep and wake cycles, she says. If you have some control over the design of your workplace, Ryan Mullenix, a partner at the international architecture and design firm NBBJ, recommends taking opportunities to control ones environment by adding dimmers to lighting and taking advantage of cross-ventilation [if there are operable windows] when the weather is nice. Bochart also recommends working near windows as much as possible, which provides sunlight while also allowing pople to connect with nonrhythmic, sensory stimulation happening outside, such as the weather, change of seasons, and animal activity. That stimulation sensory system is really rich, she says. If it isnt possible to work near a window, Bochart recommends to try to take frequent breaks and go outside, or spend time in a break room or other space with a window. [Images: Bruno Guerrero/Unsplash, munandme/iStock/Getty Images Plus] Consider swapping pop radio for nature sounds According to a report by sustainability consulting firm Terrapin Bright Green, office noise, especially prevalent within open-plan offices, is reportedly the factor that is most disruptive to indoor environmental quality and has been shown to increase stress and presenteeism. Listening to nature noises could be a handy solution. One study found that listening to nature sounds after completing stressful tasks led to a 9% to 37% decrease in one’s skin conductance level, a measure of the bodys stress response. [Images: Evan Wise/Unsplash, munandme/iStock/Getty Images Plus] Embrace natural patterns and decor Bochart recommends seeking out natural fractal patterns for decor, which are patterns within nature that are repeated on different scales . . . found in almost in every natural item. Science is telling us that when we’re exposed to a multitude of fractal patterns, especially at a medium density, we get positive stimulation . . . so we’re able to process information faster and in a more relaxed way, she says. I even have some seashells within my environment. Mullenix recommends considering hanging up some nature-inspired artphotos or paintings that show green forests, waterfalls, flowering plants, etc., and are rotated each season. Even images of nature can provide a boost when the real thing is hard to come by. [Images: Bofu Shaw/Unsplash] Build movement into your day Humans are not built to sit all the time. Lora Cavuoto, head of the University at Buffalos Ergonomics and Biomechanics Lab, says that staying seated at a desk for hours at a time without breaks can lead to problems like muscles, tendons, and ligaments wearing down. Cavuoto recommends building in regular breaks to get up and go get water.” It allows you to stay hydrated, she says, but it also gets you out of your seat. Get up and go to the bathroom or get coffee.
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E-Commerce
Diversity training is more effective when its personalized, according to my new research in the peer-reviewed journal Applied Psychology. As a professor of management, I partnered with Andrew Bryant, who studies social marketing, to develop an algorithm that identifies peoples personas, or psychological profiles, as they participate in diversity training in real time. We embedded this algorithm into a training system that dynamically assigned participants to tailored versions of the training based on their personas. We found that this personalized approach worked especially well for one particular group: the skeptics. When skeptics received training tailored to them, they responded more positivelyand expressed a stronger desire to support their organizations diversity effortsthan those who received the same training as everyone else. In the age of social media, where just about everything is customized and personalized, this sounds like a no-brainer. But with diversity training, where the one-size-fits-all approach still rules, this is radical. In most diversity trainings, all participants hear the same message, regardless of their preexisting beliefs and attitudes toward diversity. Why would we assume that this would work? Thankfully, the field is realizing the importance of a learner-centric approach. Researchers have theorized that several diversity trainee personas exist. These include the resistant trainee, who feels defensive; the overzealous trainee, who is hyper-engaged; and the anxious trainee, who is uncomfortable with diversity topics. Our algorithm, based on real-world data, identified two personas with empirical backing: skeptics and believers. This is proof of concept that trainee personas arent just theoreticaltheyre real, and we can detect them in real time. But identifying personas is just the beginning. What comes next is tailoring the message. To learn more about tailoring, we looked to the theory of jujitsu persuasion. In jujitsu, fighters dont strike. They use their opponents energy to win. Similarly, in jujitsu persuasion, you yield to the audience, not challenge it. You use the audiences beliefs, knowledge, and values as leverage to make change. In terms of diversity training, this doesnt mean changing what the message is. It means changing how the message is framed. For example, the skeptics in our study still learned about the devastating harms of workplace bias. But they were more persuaded when the message was framed as a business case for diversity rather than a moral justice message. The business case message is tailored to skeptics practical orientation. If diversity training researchers and practitioners embrace tailoring diversity training to different trainee personas, more creative approaches to tailoring will surely be designed. Why it matters The Trump administration is leading a backlash against diversity initiatives, and a backlash to that backlash is emerging. This isnt entirely new: Diversity has long been a contentious issue. Organizations like the Pew Research Center, the United Nations, and others have consistently reported a conservative-liberal split, as well as a male-female split, around diversity. Diversity training has done little to bridge these gaps. For one, diversity training is often ineffective at reducing bias and improving diversity metrics in organizations. Many organizations treat diversity training efforts as a box-checking exercise. Worse, its not unusual for such efforts to backfire. Our research offers a solution: Identify the trainee personas represented in your audience and customize your training accordingly. This is what social media platforms like Facebook do: They learn about people in real time and then tailor the content they see. To illustrate the importance of tailoring diversity training specifically, consider how differently skeptics and believers think. One skeptic in our studywhich focused on gender diversity trainingsaid: The issue isnt as great as feminists try to force us to believe. Women simply focus on other things in life; men focus on career first. In contrast, a believer said: In my own organization, all CEOs and managers are men. Women are not respected or promoted very often, if at all. Clearly, trainees are different. Tailoring the training to different personas, jujitsu style, may be how we change hearts and minds. What still isnt known Algorithms are only as good as the data they rely on. Our algorithm identified personas based on information the trainees reported about themselves. More objective data, such as data culled from human resources systems, may identify personas more reliably. Algorithms also improve as they learn over time. As artificial intelligence tools become more widely used in HR, persona-identifying algorithms will get smarter and faster. The training itself needs to get smarter. A onetime training session, even a tailored one, stands less of a chance at long-term change compared with periodic nudges. Nudges are bite-sized interventions that are unobtrusively delivered over time. Now, think about tailored nudges. They could be a game changer. The Research Brief is a short take on interesting academic work. Radostina Purvanova is a professor of management and organizational leadership at Drake University. This article is republished from The Conversation under a Creative Commons license. Read the original article.
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E-Commerce
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